The Inkle Loom

The use of the inkle loom is an ancient weaving technique that produces a warp-faced fabric. Samples have been found from Egypt to Scandinavia.

The warp threads are continuous loops that are pulled around the apparatus as the work area fills. Two sheds are made through the use of string heddles on alternate warp threads. The length of the finished product is fixed by the size and number of pegs used on the loom, and by the ability to maintain or loosen tension. The width of the product is limited by the length and stiffness of the pegs.

A loom needs heddle strings. These are loops of strong twine tied to the heddle bar. Their finished length should be such that the warp that does not run through them lies even with their tops. There are methods to determine a correct length. I found it easier to make one by trial and then find an object to use that I can tie loops around to make more of the same size.

There are only two rules for warping the loom. Alternate warp threads go through the heddle string and over the top bar. Leave some initial tensioning room at the start and make sure you will have plenty of adjustment as you work. The tighter your yarn is spun the more tension adjustment you will need.

Patterns are determined in the warping process. Basically you can produce stripes, chains, bars, and solids.

Solids all warp threads the same color.

Strips adjacent warp threads the same color.

Bars alternate warp threads alternate colors

Chains Two to five same color warp threads, a single alternate color followed by an equal number of the initial color threads.

I prefer to start and end with a border color of at least 4 threads that also will be my weft color. This hides the weft and defines the body pattern. I prefer to use an uneven number of warp threads. The start thread and end thread each being a heddle warp. This practice is my preference and is not an absolute requirement. Experiment. Once you have mastered the basics it’s fun to see what else is possible.

I recommend that you tie off the warps at the tension bar at every pair or every color change. If you use good square knots, it will be easy to untie when finished and leave a little extra fringe. Frequent ties also allow for single strand tension adjustments or repair of broken warps. It is possible to warp with continuous threads of each color; however, while this saves a bit of material it can lead to confusion and uneven tension.

Now it’s time to gather your materials. Modern acrylic yarns are easy to work with and have a great selection of colors. They are not very traditional and tend to melt around fire pits. Cotton is easy to work. You can use everything from fine crochet to heavy yarns. There is very little stretch so lots of tension adjustment must be available. Linen is another easy to work material. It is very strong and has almost no stretch. Silk is should an easy to work material although rarely found. Wool is my favorite. It is the ultimate traditional material. It does have one drawback. Wool fibers are rough little devils with tiny hooks that grab adjacent strands. This characteristic is great for the spinner because it helps bind the fibers together. Those little grabbers can play havoc when trying to weave. We need adjacent warp treads to slip past each other when changing sheds. Some wool yarns just refuse to cooperate and must be tediously separated.

Wool is my favorite material but not recommended for learning. Start with acrylics. They are inexpensive, easy to use, and readily available.

The actual weaving process is quite simple. The first couple of rows can be difficult. I have found that to start I need a couple of extra sticks. Reach behind the heddle strings and push down on the warp. You will open a shed. Insert a stick, pencil, or other flat object. Reach behind the heddle strings and pull up on the warp. You will open another shed. Insert another stick. You now have a base to work on. You can adjust the placement to leave any desired fringe. Reach behind the heddle strings and push down on the warp. You have opened your first working shed. Insert the shuttle. Now squeeze the shuttle and your sticks together. Then kind of sckooch all of the warp threads together at the tension bar and at all of your sticks. Leave a tail of yarn at least several widths of weaving in length. Pull the shuttle through. Reach behind the heddle strings and pull up on the warp. Insert the shuttle and pull tightly against your first weave. Twist the shuttle to keep the shed open. If you have enough tension the shuttle should remain in place. Now, gently pull your loose end and push the warp threads together on that side. Pinch the warps and pass that loose end through the shed. While holding tension on that loose end twist the shuttle flat. Now, while holding that loose end, repeat the process on the shuttle side. Pull the shuttle through. You can now do a little pinching, pulling, and adjusting to get the weaving the proper width. Reach behind the heddle strings and push the warp down. Insert the shuttle, twist, pass the loose end through, remove the shuttle and gently pull both weft yarns. You have completed three rows. The weaving continues. Push down warp, open shed, pass shuttle into shed, pull or beat the weave, draw weft tight, pinch edge, pull shuttle through, pull up warp, open shed, pass shuttle into shed, pull or beat the weave, draw weft tight, pinch edge, pull shuttle through. When you run out of working room, it is best to stop on a push with the shuttle in the shed against the heddles. Loosen tension, pull warp around, push heddles into place with the shuttle as needed. Reset your tension and continue weaving. When you get as far as you can weave or to your desired length, you can either tie off the end or back sew four or five sheds. I prefer to back sew to finish. A tied off end will unravel unless some or all of the warp fringe ends are braided.

Practice makes perfect. There are no secrets. Even tension makes even weaves. Careful attention to the turn on the edges and cross tension makes uniform widths. The pattern is in the warping process. Have fun.